Voyages of Shimshal

Shimshal's permanent mooring gets a fine new boat house

2011-07-11T21:59:00.005+01:00

Shimshal is moored near Arduaine and we are lucky enough to own the remnants of an old and derelict boathouse on the shore a hundred metres or so from her mooring. After 12 months of seeking the appropriate permissions we cleared the site last autumn. This spring Brian and Darren, friends from mid Wales, set about building us a fine new boathouse. It is a robust steel framed structure clad in Siberian larch. Already the wood is starting to go silver and blend into the landscape.

Cruising and pottering around Skye and Torridon June 2011

2011-07-11T21:55:00.005+01:00

Michelle White, Sally and me watered and provisioned Shimshal minutes before the rain started to fall in buckets. Motoring out of Oban Bay my horizon shrank to not much further than the rain and mist on my glasses. It was Michelle's first trip on Shimshal but, instinctively, she knew that when it's wet on deck the best place to be is down below enjoying the luxuries of Shimshal's deck saloon. The skipper stayed at the helm all the way to Tobermory by which time the rain was easing and the mist lifting.

Despite this dank and inauspicious start Michelle took to life on board very easily. Having sailed Lasers she was most at home helming and, when the Autohelm proved somewhat unpredictable, she spent many long hours at the wheel coaxing Shimshal along and only had to be fuelled and motivated by the occasional biscuit.

It rained heavily all night in Tobermory but we slept well tied to a mooring. Ashore next morning we bumped into Richard Russell and family who were holidaying in the grounds of a castle on the northern tip of Mull. Whilst the rain cleared up we drank coffee in one of Tobermory's excellent cafes.

The star attraction was the Peregrine Falcon roosting in the church tower on the sea front. There he sat eyeing up the twitcher's telephoto lenses and surrounded by food parcels in the form of pigeons who seemed oblivious of the predator in their midst.

By the afternoon a light south westerly appeared and, as the rain receded, we cast off our mooring and drifted off towards Ardnamurchan. With sails now up and with Shimshal powering along Michelle took the wheel most of the way to Mallaig.

New moorings had been put in at Mallaig and we rang ahead to the harbour master to reserve one but, as it turned out, there was plenty of capacity. The rain found us again that night and we pottered ashore the next morning to check out the Fisherman's Mission and to buy a map of the Skye Cuillin.

It was a short trip the next day - in rain again - across the Sound of Sleat and the southernmost tip of Skye before heading north and through the narrows into upper Loch Slapin. We anchored in 7m just north of the fish farm with the Skye Marble Quarry on our starboard and the gorgeous peak of Blabheinn on our port. This peak was to be our objective for the next day.

As the anchor went down a squall ripped through reminding us that June isn't always drought and sunshine on the West Coast of Scotland.

The next day dawned still and sunny and Sally, as always on a hill day, was up early and coaxing the rest of us out of bed with pancakes or bacon sandwiches. I fall for that trick nearly every time and end up slogging up relentless slopes of bog and tussock as my penalty for a cooked breakfast. In fairness it was a perfect day to "do" Blabheinn. We motored silently with our rather wonderful electric outboard (Torqueedo) along the mirror smooth loch and beached the tender a few yards from the road.

A short walk along the road led to a path that climbed up through the heather and bog following the bank of a sparkling river. Above that came a narrow and rocky gorge and then the waterfall. At about 500 metres I took a phone call from John who was struggling at the Pinfold with Mum's care package and this rather distracted me from the allures of Blabheinn. I wandered back down the hill to the boat whilst Sally and Michelle went on to the Summit. They had a fine day.

We sailed, or rather we motored, that afternoon with the intention of heading to Skye's West Coast but the westerly breeze and a strong wind forecast pushed us further south so we fetched up on the island of Canna which is well protected from the south west. We nosed, late into the day, into the crowded anchorage and managed to find a secure holding close in on the north side of the bay. Although the breeze picked up the threatened gale never materialised. After a very wet night the wind settled in the west and we went ashore to check out the cafe which was splendid.

By early afternoon the sun was out and we were hopeful that the wind had got enough south in it for us to enjoy a speedy reach up to Dunvegan. As we came out of the lee of Canna the sea was quite lumpy and the wind direction would have left us with a bouncy beat for the rest of the day. It took only a couple of moments to decide to ease the sheets and run off to the east towards the Point of Sleat. Shimshal sped along at her customary 8 or 9 knots and, as we entered the Sound and turned north, the wind followed us rounds and gave us a dead run with poled out genoa up the eastern side of Skye. Alba Explorer, the 80 foot Ocean Youth Boat, had left Rhum as we passed and Michelle's competitive spirit emerged as she coaxed Shimshal along to keep her ahead of her 80 foot neighbour. The dual continued until the early evening when Alba Explorer ducked into an anchorage just short of the Skye Bridge. We continued onto Plockton and picked up a mooring in the evening gloom.

We had never been to Plockton before so the next morning we went ashore to the hotel for showers and a leisurely breakfast. We motored out of the bay and picked up a southerly breeze as we closed on the Applecross Peninsular and this pushed us all the way up to Loch Torridion which we roared down with 25 knots of wind off the beam. The water was rushing past so fast we scrambled to get the sails down before we ran out of water.

We anchored in Loch Shieldaig in the early afternoon and were delighted to eat ashore in a lovely French owned restaurant overlooking the bay and Shieldaig Island. At dusk we rowed back out to our anchorage and visited a Hansa 40 charter boat that had anchored a few yards from us. On the Hansa we faced a gentle interrogation by the all male crew who had chartered out of Armadale. I have to say the Hansa was a curious mishmash of design with a very racy open stern and plumb stem but with a tiny electric furling, self tacking jib. The 6 boys on board had obviously been sailing her quite hard with the result that, despite the fact that she was only 3 weeks old, quite a few bits were already falling off. I'm not too sure who the designer had in mind when he penned the Hansa 40.

Another Munro day dawned fine and flat calm. Our RIB roared off towards the head of Loch Torridon at an implausibly early hour. We beached amongst the midges and donned our boots and hill gear. Intending to climb the Northern Pinnacles of Liathach we had taken the precaution of packing 10 metres of an old furling line to act as a confidence rope on the scramble. The approach took us through the rhododendron and scots pine forest behind Torridon House before heading up the well made path that climbs up into the Glen between Liathach and Bhienn Alligin. After a few miles we plunged into a boggy and tussocky wilderness of sandstone terraces that lead up to Coire na Caim on the north side of Liathach.

The Pinnacles looked imposing below and I did flirt with idea of seeking an easier line but this didn't go down too well with the girls so I podded on. The steepness increased and, eventually, using grassy handholds, we came out on the ridge between the first and the second Pinnacle. By now there was a swirl of cloud and a few spots of rain to dampen the sandstone. Which way to go? We had not got a guidebook and there seemed no evidence of any route. The southern side of the ridge looked steep, intimidating and loose and the northern side steeper, looser and even more intimidating. The rope now seemed to be particularly pointless as it was long enough to get us into a position that would then prove impossible to extract us from. Fortunately for me my misgivings were echoed by Sally and Michelle and we decided upon discretion but not before I had slipped on a loose wet rock and set everyone's hearts racing as we all contemplated our exposure. With confidence and ego dented we set about the weary task of a very long retreat and made a complete meal of descending the steep, loose slope that led down to the Coire.

It was a relief to get back into the RIB and race at full throttle the five rain sodden miles back to the welcoming warmth and security of Shimshal. The Hanse had left and a couple of other boats had arrived and we were to meet more of them the next day on Rona. It had been a fine day out on the hills that had been thwarted by a 100m of wet, slippery and deplorably loose rock. In fact, as we were later to discover, this is exactly how the Northern Pinnacles are described in the guide book together with the cautionary advice, "best attempted in winter when the rocks are cemented together by ice". We celebrated our failure ashore with fine food and fine views.

It is a short but spectacular sail from Torridon to Rona. It was raining in the east but clear and sunny in the west so it was no hardship to leave the wonders of Loch Torridon and head out towards the the lighthouse on Rona. We put away the sails off the entrance to the bay on the west side and concentrated hard on the chart plotter as we motored gingerly past the rocks that guard one of "Scotland's best anchorages". It came highly recommended by guidebooks and friends alike.

A few boats were already occupying the best spots so we dug the anchor firmly into the mud and let out enough chain to leave our rudder just 10 metres short of a drying reef. Not ideal but secure enough. The two Sheildaig boats came and anchored close by and we went ashore to explore Rona. Failing on first attempt to find the cave we wandered along the quad bike track that threads it's way through the heather, midges and moorland.

On the way back to Shimshal we passed behind Eala, a Moody Eclipse. Ali, her skipper, called us over and we were soon relaxing in the saloon with his wife Sally and tucking into that morning's harvest of winkles and limpets. Alan and Fiona joined us from their boat and we spent a lovely hour or two supping white wine and telling stories of adventure in the Hebrides. It turned out that we had met Ali and Sally a couple of years earlier in Ardfern which is where they live and keep their boat.

Even by Scottish standards the next morning was particularly soggy and another westerly gale was forecast. The first priority was to return the hospitality of the previous evening and so we welcomed Ali, Sally, Alan and Fiona on board for morning coffee. Nobody was in a hurry to leave but Sally and Michelle did venture ashore to seek out the elusive cave on the east coast of Rona which doubles as a church. Eala left for Portree and we abandoned our previous plans to sail to the west coast of Skye and opted to follow them down to Portree. The gales didn't come to much and the rain abated during the afternoon. Arriving late in the day there were no moorings left so we dropped the anchor only to find that the soft mud didn't provide the most secure holding. We reset the anchor a few times and, in the process, backed up the chain which prized the cowl off the top of the windlass shearing the M6 bolts that had secured it. A trip to a hardware store in Tobermory to buy a set of bolt exctractors fixed that problem a couple of days later.

Ashore in Portree we met up with Pete and Irene Smith who had driven down from Uig to join us. Friends from our Everest trip in 1994 they had migrated north and settled in Uig. Pete has carved out a new career caring for the gardens of widows and fighting fires whilst Irene has moved into brewing Skye's "Red Cuillin" beer. It was lovely to see them but we had docked late so we arranged to meet up for dinner aboard in Armadale the next evening. The tide mandated a 5am start so no time to tarry at the supermarket and, luckily, Pete and Irene volunteered to supply the dinner we had invited them to!

The anchor was up and we we were motoring south moments after my alarm went off. Shafts of early morning sunlight filtered through the heavy rain clouds over Rassay as we plugged south towards the Skye Bridge. Gradually the wind became favourable and up went the sails. By the time we got to Kylerhea the tide was running fast and sped us on our way towards the morning sunshine.

We picked up an Armadale mooring in time for lunch and the Marina man came alongside with his floating hosepipe to fill our depleted water tanks. He left the pipe with us so that we could attack the topsides with polish whilst he went off to fix the broken Hansa we had seen in Shieldaig.

A brief sortie ashore found us ensconced in the inevitable cafe. This time we sat out on the sunny terrace adjacent to the ferry pier.

Pete and Irene arrived brandishing pre-cooked dinner for five. We ate in the cockpit bathed in the mid-summer evening sunshine. A rare treat on this trip!

A tedious motor into a light wind the next day took us to Tobermory's luxurious showers, scallops and chips from the van next to the pier, more peregrine antics and lots and lots of midge bites.

The wind was westerly and very unpredictable the next day when we sailed into the Sound of Mull. The other Ocean Youth yacht, Alba Explorer, was heading south too and so, with Michelle at the helm, another dual was on. During the puffs of wind the 80 footer would power itself and surge off a knot or so faster than we could muster but we had the edge when the wind died down and we were able to claw our way back. We played cat and mouse all the way to Duart Castle when our larger rival bore off for Oban. We came close onto the wind with a course to the entrance of Cuan Sound but soon the evening calm arrived and on came the engine. The tide shot us through Cuan at a break-neck speed and it's quite easy to see how so many yachts get pushed onto the reef where the channel takes a 90 degree dog-leg to the north. We got through though without drama and half an hour later we were tied up securely to our own mooring. We slept aboard as Stu, Liz and there five children were in Traighuaine that night.

Summer storms on the West Coast of Scotland May 2011

2011-07-11T20:06:00.002+01:00

We were meant to to be cycling on the Outer Isles but a vicious Atlantic depression was closing on the West Coast of Scotland with damaging winds forecast for the Monday. As a precaution we drove up to Oban and moved Shimshal from her temporary Cardingmel mooring (very open to the south and west) to a mooring tucked in close to the shore in Ardintrave Bay at the north end of Kerrera. As a further precaution we backed up the rope mooring strop with our own chain and then went back to Traighuaine leaving Shimshal to her own devices. As the wind rose and the pressure fell we went to check on our new boathouse but it is very sturdy and all was secure. At high spring tide with a howling south westerly and intense low pressure we were interested to see just how close the sea came. All was fine.

An hour or two later the wind was gusting past 60 knots and the sea was a maelstrom at the end of the Craignish Peninsula.

By mid afternoon the trees were tumbling and the telegraph poles were snapping as the wind went off the scale. The power went off for 18 hours. The normally sheltered lagoon at Ardfern was a decidedly hostile place for yachts and at least a couple of yachts there dragged their moorings.

At Craobh the sea was breaking over the mole and those yachts that were beam onto the wind were pressed at impossible and damaging angles against the pontoon. One pontoon broke.

By 1600 the wind veered to the north west and began to ease and everyone began to count the cost. 240 boats damaged on the West Coast of Scotland with numerous boats dragged or broken from the moorings and dumped on the rocks. Shimshal was unscathed but her near neighbour, the illustrious Drum, broke her moorings and had to be towed off the rocks twice in the midst of the maelstrom. The boats near the Cardingmell moorings had been thrashed with several on the rocks and others with ripped out genoas. Kilmelford had seen the strongest storms in living memory and several boats lay stricken and sinking having broken their moorings and then been holed.

A storm to remember that left the spring trees scorched and autumnal after being seared by the salt laden storm force winds. We never got on our bikes once that week.

From now on I will only ever leave Shimshal on a chain strop as rope ones resulted in much damage during that storm.

To Knoydart with the Comerie's April 2011

2011-07-11T19:51:00.004+01:00

It was our second year of sailing with the Comerie's and, as usual, they brought their weather charm with them. We were prepared for chilly nights in late April but ended up with an unbroken spell of high pressure and wall to wall sunshine. A great week of sailing with excellent company and the perfect tonic after a stressful spring which had seen the death of my father and the inexorable decline of my mother's health as Alzheimer's ravaged her mind and body.

Our mooring had not been recommissioned so Shimshal was still in her winter berth in Craobh Haven when we loaded her up for a week long cruise to Knoydart. We left the marina in bright sunshine and light winds and had half the big Genoa hanked on when the gust hit us sending us scurrying for winch handles and desperately pulling on lines. Such was the chaos of the first sail of the season we managed to break two Spinlock jammers within a mile or two of Craobh. An inauspicious start.

Things were more ordered after that as we sped up the Sound of Luing and across the Firth of Lorne and into the Sound of Mull.

Dinner ashore was a rather curious experience. It was some kind of music festival on Mull and all of the restaurants were packed so we ended up in a rather down at heel Chinese run by Indians. Against all expectations the food was great.

The next day gave us a gentle sail north, around Ardnamurchan and into a mooring off the Old Forge at Inverie in Knoydart. This is supposed to be the remotest pub in the UK so we anticipated a quiet meal ashore. Instead flocks of people were perched on the grassy swathe in front of the village all soaking up the evening sun. It was the last night of the Knoydart Folk Music. Festival and so, after some intensive people watchin, we returned to Shimshal for dinner aboard.

The boats ferrying the festival goers arrived early the next day and continued to roar to and fro Mallaig for most of the day as, gradually Inverie waved off its 700 visitors. We went ashore with a mountain in Sally's sights. A track led north east through forestry and out into the moorland. We turned right off the track and plodded up through the heather and bog up towards a plateau at about 500m. Then, more steeply, we puffed up an elegant conical hill that led to a lovely ridge and then onto the summit of ___.

Excellent weather and wonderful views out too Skye, The Small Isles and Ben Nevis and Kintail. On the way back down we followed a steep gulley that brought us down to the track a little east of Inverie. Dinner that night was ashore in the Old Forge.

THe next morning we motored out of Loch Nevis until the wind picked up and pushed us south and west towards Ardnamurchan in delightful weather. Late that evening we dodged Drumbhuie on the southside of Loch Sunart where we anchored for the night.

THe next day we pottered down the Sound of Mull and onto Oban where we picked up a mooring off Kerrera. On out last day we moved onto the Cardingmell Moorings near the sailing club where North West Marine had negotiated us a mooring as they had failed to recommission out own mooring. Sally managed to hitch a lift down to Traighuaine with our neighbour, Neil, who works in the hospital in Oban. She returned with the car and we left Shimshal for the comforts of Traighuaine.

Rhum, Skye, Eigg and Drumbuie June 11th - 19th 2010

2010-06-20T14:41:00.003+01:00

To the Outer Isles with Gloria 5th - 10th June 2010

2010-06-20T12:55:00.001+01:00

Around and aground on Mull with Chris & Lynne Comerie 15th - 23rd May 2010

2010-06-20T12:49:00.002+01:00

Shimshal gets a new winter cover!

2010-06-20T12:47:00.000+01:00

Shimshal comes home to her new mooring at Traighuaine near Craobh Haven

2009-08-31T21:45:00.003+01:00

Three summers in Scandinavia

The trip down from Appin to Craobh on Saturday the 30th August was a bouncy one accomplished by motor and by pointing dead into the wind and the seas. Whilst we crashed south the stupendous 85 foot Ketch, Velacarina, motored up behind us and pitched its exquisitely polished brass pulpit into the steep seas.

After 3 summers of delightful sailing in Scandinavia we dodged out of the squally seas into the calm of Cuan Sound and then threaded the islands of Loch Shuna to reach Shimshal's new mooring in the shallow bay just east of Craobh Haven.

The mooring itself seems to have been engineered to cope with extreme situations which is always reassuring but it meant that it was quite a struggle to pick up the heavy chain head line and make it fast in the stiff breeze.

After 5,000 miles Shimshal is now back in home waters having enjoyed a spectacular Scandinavian Odyssey.

Neptune's Staircase to the Pier House at Appin

2009-08-31T21:41:00.004+01:00

On our last morning in the Canal we descended Neptune’s Staircase (which took about 2 hours), passed through the road and rail swing bridges and entered the final reach that led to the basin at Corpach. Here we paused to buy provisions and fuel before exiting through the final sea lock. After 48 hours Shimshal was back in the salt water and the sails came out. Songlines, the Moody 42 that had accompanied us through the canal, sped off south under motor on her delivery mission. She was bound for Lymmington and brokerage.

We sailed as far as the Corran Narrows before the wind headed us and the motor came on. By now we were getting gusts to 35 knots and it was during one of these that our towed Zodiac flipped and buried its bow. As the tender submarined the painter, fortunately, broke before anything else.

The Zodiac was quickly retrieved and by 2 pm we picked up one of the moorings off the Pier House at Appin and booked a table for dinner. Don Griffiths, who had been staying at Traighuaine with Donna, had driven up to meet us and came aboard briefly. Donna and Bri joined us for dinner at the Pier House.

Above a large dredger heading east at Fort Augustus

Loch Ness

Sunshine and Showers at the Pier House in Appin, Argyll

Fort Augustus

2009-08-31T21:38:00.005+01:00

It took about an hour to negotiate the flight of locks at Fort Augustus and all the time cameras clicked and videos rolled as we provided the entertainment for umpteen tourists ranged along the lock sides. Fortunately we didn’t crash or commit too many sailing sins so the resulting footage should all be fairly benign and free from embarrassment. Thank goodness for the light winds!

Loch Oich, a lovely wooded Loch strewn with islets, formed the 30 metre summit of our traverse and then we descended to Loch Lochy. Here we were 10 metres INSIDE the channel when we touched the muddy bottom of Loch Lochy which was a bit disconcerting. Fortunately we didn’t stick and continued along our way bemused rather than bashful about this latest encounter between keel and contour.

By 4 pm we were within a few miles of Fort William and the massive North Face of Ben Nevis loomed above us out of the afternoon murk. Neptune’s Staircase was, however, barring our way and so we docked on a pontoon for the night and put up the cockpit tent to keep the evening’s deluge at bay. The crew of Songlines disappeared but that of Bold Explorer came over to finish off our Polish Vodka. Geoff Evans of Devon Sailing http://www.devonsailing.co.uk was heading south after an extended cruise of the West Coast of Britain and Orkney with a crew of trainee Yachtmasters. Geoff is planning on spending a few summers doing skippered charter work in the North West Passage aboard his very solid steel Bruce Roberts 45. We enjoyed their company and still managed to be up and off by 8am when the Lock Keeper opened the first gate to begin our lengthy descent to the sea.

We left Bold Explorer at the foot of Neptune’s Staircase but I am sure our paths will cross again. Unfortunately we heard, a few days later, that they ran into some difficulties with an engine fire in the Sound of Luing and were towed into Craobh Haven by the Oban lifeboat.

http://forargyll.com/2009/09/oban-lifeboat-launches-to-aid-of-yacht-bold-explorer

Chris on the fore deck

Neil

Loch Oich and the Caledonian Canal

2009-08-31T21:34:00.002+01:00

Neil's mooring line is only just long enough for the deeper descents

Tiny wooded Island on Loch Oich

Chris Smith

Shimshal, Bold Explorer and Songlines at the summit of the Caledonian Canal

Caledonian Canal

2009-08-31T21:28:00.002+01:00

We locked into the sealock of the Caledonian Canal at 12.45 on Friday. Murray and Sheena were there to see us safely in despite the drizzle. The first Lock Keeper (Dave) was very helpful and we paid up for an 8 day permit (£220) which is the shortest permit available. We waited there for the road bridge to open and then set off, unaccompanied, through the half dozen locks that lead to Loch Ness. Dave had phoned ahead to warn his fellow keepers that we were on our way and we made good progress. All went well and we docked at Fort Augustus at 7pm.

The whole trip was quite damp and the hills around Loch Ness were swathed in cloud. We dried out with a meal in the Lock Inn.

Morray Firth and Loch Ness

2009-08-31T21:24:00.001+01:00

Approaching Inverness and the Morray Firth

2009-08-31T21:17:00.003+01:00

Limfjord to Lemvig, Denmark.

2009-08-31T21:10:00.002+01:00

Limfjord, Denmark.

2009-08-31T20:59:00.003+01:00

Eastern Limfjord to Arborg, Denmark.

2009-08-31T20:36:00.003+01:00

Sonderborg to Aebelo and Grena, Denmark.

2009-08-30T21:42:00.005+01:00

We left Aebelo at first light and were soon out of the island's wind shadow. Shimshal surged north driven on by a fresh westerly wind. Even though the wind was offshore a chop was kicked up in the shallow seas and Sally didn't feel too good. We closed on the island of Samso and sailed up its western side through a buoyed channel before rounding its northern tip and turning north east into the Kattegat. We passed through the shipping lanes that led to Aarhus and, as the wind was now veering to the north west, we decided to make for the marina at Grena.

With a brisk wind blowing we entered the marina and selected a berth before going back out and fendering up. By the time we returned to dock our space had been snatched by a motor boat leaving us with no other berthing options. In the end we went and anchored a couple of hundred metres south of the marina entrance and saved our kroner.

Waiting for the lifting bridge at Sonderborg

Egensund to Aebelo

2009-08-18T16:13:00.001+01:00

Sunday 16th August 2009, Egensund.

Distance Logged 0 miles

Michael Schupp, Sally & Simon

The Ryanair Bugle sounded moments after we touched the runway at Denmark’s Bilund airport – another Ryanair flight arriving ahead of schedule. A few minutes later we were in our hired Ford Fiesta speeding south to join the boat at Marina Minde near Egernsund on the Flensburg Fjord.

It blew hard all day Sunday so we stayed put in the marina and got the boat ready for sea. Sally shopped whilst Michael and I repaired the vang with a formidable new rivet gun. Then Sally disappeared! Sonderborg is only 8 miles away and she jumped in the Fiesta to take it back to the Europcar drop off. She was supposed to be catching the 4pm bus back but at 6pm there was of sign of her.

At 6.30 she arrived and, rather sheepishly, confessed all. She had struggled to find the new depot and so posted the keys to the car through a letter box somewhere near the old depot which just happened to have an old Europcar sign up. Though, it had to be said, there was no sign of a car hire car park or a desk. Anyway she abandoned the car in the street and set off to walk the mile or so to the bus station. Half a mile later she came upon the real Europcar Depot!

It costs quite a bit if you lose a hire car so she retraced her steps whilst pondering how to retrieve the keys from a randomly selected letterbox in Sonderborg. It’s probably a good job it was a sleepy Sunday afternoon and that the man monitoring the CCTV cameras was otherwise engaged because the first thing she did on arrival at the supposed ‘key drop’ was to thrust her arm through the letter box only to find that she needed to grow another longer and thinner arm. Fortunately no rabid hound removed her hand and she strolled around the yard looking for inspiration.

Car thieves often use bits of bent wire and so it was that she came upon one which turned out to be perfect for job. It was just a moment’s work to hook the keys through the letter box with the wire and retrieve the precious keys.

By the time she was back on the boat the easiest thing seemed to be to have a nice meal in the marina restaurant and a good night’s sleep.

Monday 17^th August

Distance Logged 65 miles

Egensund to Aebelo

Everyone goes aground in the Baltic at some stage and we have been lucky over the last two summers. Today was the day, with only 2 days left in the Baltic, that we blotted our copybook.

We left the marina early in light winds which was fortunate as the prop was fouled with barnacles reducing thrust quite alarmingly. With the main not yet bent on we drifted down the Flensborg Fjord before dodging in to the lee of the shore. I went forward to drop the anchor only to find that the ‘down’ solenoid for the windlass was on strike. I eased the clutch on the windlass and away went the anchor rather sooner than I had expected. Anyway we were securely fixed to the sea bed and it was time to bend the main on and fit the battens. This can be a tedious job but all went well and the anchor came up with just a smidgeon of Danish mud.

In the picturesque port of Sonderborg we circled until 11.35 when the traffic stopped and the bridge lifted. Along with a handful of other boats we lunged for the gap and headed north before passing under the high road bridge under sail.

The rolling Danish countryside passed by close on either side as we reached north in a moderate westerly. We reefed after motor sailing a leg to windward and then eased the sheets on the new course. The boat was cruising along nicely under staysail and reefed main. All very relaxing and so we did.

I guess the alarm bells should have sounded when Michael, who was helming, announced that we would be able ease the sheets further once we had rounded the headland. I never looked to see what he meant but , a few seconds later Sally shouted 3 metres then, immediately after, 2.5 metres then a soft whooshing noise as the boat came to a complete stop on a sand bar about 50 yards west of the headland. Sure enough the sea there was a sandy yellow and we were hard aground.

Yacthmaster Sally, with great presence of mind, shouted, “start the engine” and then did so. Michael was looking a bit bemused and was, at first, in denial. But there was no denying it, we were still hard aground!

With the engine full ahead and the helm over I tried to pivot on the keel and tack the sails but 75 horse power wasn’t enough so into reverse we went with sails sheeted in to induce some heel. Nothing happened. Michael and Sally moved onto the leeward gunwale and I felt a little bounce as the chop lifted us. We were bouncing backwards very, very slowly with the engine straining in reverse against the sails that were trying to drive us forward.

As we finally came free I gybed and sailed 300 metres off shore before tacking and then rounding the headland. Only our pride was dented and I am hopeful that we now carry less weed on the keel but, I suspect, we also carry less antifouling after sandblasting the lead bulb.

By now the skies were grey and the wind freshening as we sailed north through the Lille Belt and under various pylons and bridges. Mercifully the winds were off shore and the seas flat. A few rain showers passed over and every now and then the unmistakable whiff of excrement drifted from the shore. Does the whole of Denmark stink of pigs?

We entered the Kattegat 14 months after leaving it and steered north west where we aimed for the nature reserve island of Aebelo. We arrived at 2130 and, as night fell, anchored in 5 metres off the eastern shore just south of 2 moorings which were occupied by German boats. The forecast was for south westerly’s over night becoming westerly’s on Tuesday and possibly north westerly. All gale warnings have been cancelled.

Gdansk (Poland) to Egersund in the Flensburg Fjord (Denmark). June 23rd to 28th 2009

2009-07-02T22:51:00.005+01:00

Simon, Sally & Joseph Currin.

Log 380 miles

After the Ryanair jet had bounced into the runway at Gdansk the captain warned the cabin crew to exercise great caution whilst opening the doors due to “extreme winds”. An inauspicious start to a sailing holiday!

A strong north easterly had been blowing in the Baltic for several days and it was to continue for the duration of our trip from Gdansk to Denmark. Following winds to 40 knots meant that we had very fast passage times and a substantial rip in the mainsail.

Gdansk Marina had taken excellent care of Shimshal during our absence and all we had to do was hose off the soot that had accumulated from the surrounding heavy industry. We motored out of the dock into the river and were very soon amongst the busy ship yards which were alive with the clatter of grinders, drills, hammers and cranes. Quite litereally a hive of industry.

Fortunately when we got to the open sea the winds were quite light so the 10 mile motor north east to the Hel Peninsula wasn’t as bad as anticipated although the seas did start to pile up as we rounded the point. As we did the wind came around onto our starboard quarter and increased to 30 knots. We sped westwards at around 9 knots despite being conservatively canvassed.

Very early the next morning we rounded the southern tip of Bornholm and came into flat water. We anchored close into the shore and had a leisurely breakfast. By evening the wind had eased a little and we entered Ronne Harbour and docked on the south side. This large ferry port was quite industrial and a lot emptier than we had expected. In the evening we walked into the town centre for supper in one of the many cafes.

Thursday was very sunny and we left early in light winds. With poled out genoa we romped westwards at 8 to 9 knots in gentle winds. As always these winds built steadily through the day and when they hit 35 knots and we were going at 12 knots we decided, too late, to reef. Heading up to roll away the main meant that we had the full main thrashing rather too vigorously! The result was a large rip in the leach.

We could keep the main up but had to roll away the ripped portion leaving a very conservative amount of canvass for the next 130 miles. Never the less we plodded on with the intention of finding a dredged channel leading to the north of Falster. However as we neared this lea shore and the depth shallowed, the seas started to build and break.

With a mile or two to go we steered south having decided that it was too dangerous to close on a shallow lea shore. This left us beam onto some very steep seas and, on a couple of occasions we slid down the side and buried the starboard cabin windows in the trough. There was a lot of crashing and banging and it was a relief, after 18 miles to steer west once again and pick up the shelter from the island.

As dusk fell we passed a huge windfarm. There was a lot of traffic in the narrow channel between Denmark and Germany so we stayed north to have flatter seas and less congestion. However there was a large number of ships at anchor and some were unlit so we had to thread them with great care guided by radar.

In the early hours of the morning we were on a collision course with the German / Danish ferry. Under sail we had right of way but common sense prevailed and we took last minute avoiding action to pass a 100 metres behind him.

By now the seas were completely flat and the wind moderating and yet we were unable to set much sail. Despite this we plodded on at 6 knots entering the mouth of the Flensburg Fjord at about 8am. The morning sun brought out more and more yachts as we drifted up the Fjord towards the excellent Marina Minde near Egersund.

We anchored short of the Marina in order to drop the damaged mainsail. Joe took a brief swim and professed that the water was “fine” though at 14 degrees I wasn’t convinced. He blamed the jellyfish and not the temperature for his rapid retreat.

That evening we negotiated the box mooring and secured the boat ready for her 7 week stay here. The rest of the weekend we spent cycling to and from Sonderborg where we got mixed up in a professional cycle race and explored the Dybol memorial to the German invasion of 1864. A relaxing and enjoyable day amongst the waterfront cafes and the poppy fields of Denmark.

On Monday we took 3 connecting buses to Billund Airport which is better known for Legoland. Ryanair deposited us 2 hours later in a sweltering Birmingham.

25th & 26th May 2009

2009-05-26T16:35:00.005+01:00

In gloriously sunny weather we packed up the boat and explored the town of Gdansk. The highlight being the trip to the underground Solidarity Museum at the entrance to the ship yard that sparked the uprising that ended communism in Poland in 1989.

We flew back to Birmingham courtesy of Ryanair late on Tuesday evening leaving Shimshal securely docked in Gdansk Marina for the next month.

Solidarity Monument, Gdansk.

Shimshal with cockpit tent

Gdansk Marina

23rd & 24th May 2009 Gotland to Gdansk

2009-05-24T18:00:00.013+01:00

Log 193 miles. Sally, Simon & Carol.

We left Gotland after dinner on a very calm evening but soon picked up a light breeze from the south west. So once again we were pitching into the wind. Fortunately the wind veered to the west and we were soon reefed down and hammering along at 8 - 9 knots. By Saturday afternoon it was a steady 30 knots with gusts of 35 knots and so we had little difficulty in maintaining and average of 8.7 knots over the 23 hour run.

The sea and the wind slowly died away as we approached the Hel Peninsular which we rounded at about 20.00 on Friday. We entered Gdansk Channel under sail and called the Harbour Master on Channel 14. We docked, initially in the wrong place, for customs clearance but the border guard was not at all concerned about any formalities. We then went onto dock for the night at the proper customs quay.

The Ship Yards of Gdansk

We left the Customs Quay early on the Saturday morning and motored about 4 miles up the river to berth in the centre of Gdansk in a compact little marina. Initially we went along side a large Swedish motor yacht before moving to our designated berth. Unfortunately this was exactly 4.5m wide and so lft no room for fenders. We managed to excracate ourselved with some pushing and shoving before moving to a double berth in the centre of the marina which seems to be very secure. The Marina is patrolled 24 huors a day and there is CCTV too so hopefully the boat will be very secure. Electricity and water is free and a 32 day berth has cost £260.

Robert, our friend from our last Expedition, came to visit on Sunday morning and we sat in the cockpit talking about the Karakorams and mulling over the prospect of and expedition to Shimshal with a crossing of Snow lake, the Hispar and Baltoro Glaciers to Concordia and then exiting over the Masherbrum La to Hushe.

The shipyards of Gdansk

Simon, Sally, Carol and Robert

Royal Way in the centre of Gdansk

Shimshal and the Great Crane in Gdansk

Shimshal docked in Gdansk

May 22nd visit to Visby by Bus

2009-05-24T17:44:00.006+01:00

Roof tops at Visby

Visby

Botanical Gardens at Visby

Shimshal docked at Herrvik

Thursday 21st May 2009 Farosund to Herrvik on Gotland

2009-05-21T19:48:00.011+01:00

Shimshal II at Herrvik

Log 30 miles. Sally, Simon & Carol.

The winds, though light, were, as usual coming from exactly the wrong direction so once again we motored the entire route to Herrvik which is a tiny fishing community on the eastern most point of Gotland.

Along the way we saw a Sea Eagle being mobbed by 3 Terns and later a pair of Goosander.

We were uncertain about the depth of water available in the Guest Harbour at Herrvik but, as it happens the depth was of no consequnce as the entrance was too narrow for us to get in anyway. That's a first! Instead we docked along side the tyre clad fishing wharf and went for lunch at the delightful Krog on the southern side of the harbour.

Gotland is an entirely limestone island that popped up out of the Baltic after the last Ice Age and is characterised by limestone cliffs and reefs. It also has Europe's largest cement factory. The walk around the headland south of the harbour gave spectacular views of the coast, the orchid strewn heathland and the pine forest.

Orchids above the limestone cliffs of Gotland

Gotland

Sally having been inspired by watching the film Australia!

Violets

Tuesday 19th May, Kokar to Gotland.

2009-05-20T16:14:00.005+01:00

Red Backed Shrike hitching a lift south through the Baltic

Log 150 miles, Sally, Simon & Carol

A very grey, drizzly and windless start to the day. We left at 0450 and motored, once again, out of the harbour before turning south and then south west for Gotland. Our last views of Finland were of low rocks melting into the foggy murk. The wind was a feeble 3-5 knots from the south west and, once again we were forced to motor making the journey long and monotonous. We were visited by some migrating birds en route which we eventually identified as red backed shrikes and spotted fly catchers. They stayed with us most of the way leaving deposits all around the companionway. The Quantum of Solace was shown in the afternoon but Carol and Sally remained dutifully on watch.

By night the fog was back and the flycatcher had died. We considered dodging into an anchorage on the north side of Faro as the passage through Faro Sound was partly unlit and very narrow. Fortunately the fog cleared a couple of miles north of Gotland and we docked in Farosund Marina at 0328.

Monday 18th May, Degerby to Sandvik Marina on Kokar.

2009-05-20T16:09:00.004+01:00

Log 23 miles. Sally Simon and Carol.

The fuel station opened at 0830 and they lent us a trolley so we bought 120 litres of diesel and siphoned 85 litres into the tank. Excellent showers then got rid of the oily residue. We drifted off the dock at about 1045 and motored north east against a light but contrary wind. As we turned south for Kokar Island the wind did so as well. We were passed by many large ferries going from Stockholm to Turku as well as several smaller inter island ferries. By the afternoon the sun had gone behind some high cloud and the forecast rain arrived by early evening.

Sandvik, our last Finnish port, was deserted and all ashore was locked up so we took the dinghy on a 12 km round trip in to find some sign of life. We went down the very narrow sound that forms the eastern shore of Kokar and passed under a bridge to emerge at another guest harbour and an open restaurant. To our surprise the proprietor agreed to cook us a meal and she proved most hospitable. The excellent lamb and warm, welcoming atmosphere meant that we didn’t mind too much when the rain arrived and it came time to climb into the dinghy for the return trip.

The excellent restaurant on Kokar

Back at the boat we prepared for the 130 mile crossing to Gotland by deflating the tender and stowing it in the cockpit. The forecast was for fog and light head winds.

Sunday 17th May Rodham to Degerby

2009-05-20T16:04:00.004+01:00

Log 12 Miles. Sally, Simon & Carol

Having had contrary winds for most of the way thus far and with a forecast for more of the same we were anxious to top up our fuel tanks before leaving Finland for Gotland. Our guest harbours guide suggested that the marina at Degerby would be open and that we could get fuel. In fact it was closed until the 10^th June and no fuel is available on Sundays. We went alongside the deserted jetty where there was plenty of depth. When the cafe opened the next day we were able to get the key for showers and toilets. We took the bicycles ashore and cycled out to a 14^th century church on the island of Foglo. The domes and spires gave it a very eastern European appearance reminding us that we were now very close to Russia.

Back at the boat I siphoned the water out of our redundant 600 litre tank directly into the bilge thus getting rid of our port list that we had carried ever since Oxelosund where the overzealous boat yard had filled the wrong tank. We had also had a recurring problem with the toilet whereby it would, intermittently, refuse to prime. I had dismantled it, cleaned and oiled it on several occasions only to find that it would work a few times and then fail. Eventually I hit upon the idea of gluing a couple of washers to the clean water outlet valve to “encourage” it to close more effectively. Thus far a bit of araldite and a couple of stainless washers appear to have done the trick so we are keeping our fingers crossed.

Saturday May 16th 2009, Mariehamn to Rodham

2009-05-20T15:08:00.008+01:00

Orchids on Nato

After moving pontoons to find one with water we filled the tanks and motored a very few miles south to anchor off the Nato nature reserve. Ashore we found another stunning spring meadow of orchids and anemones carpeting the forest. The reserve was alive with birds, flowers and photographers. The latter lying face down in the meadow grass or bent double with bum up in the air and face in a bog. A couple of horned grebe were nesting where we docked the tender and we enjoyed the usual display of red breasted mergansers, terns and eider.

In idyllic sunshine and with very little wind we raised the anchor and motored a few more miles to the guest harbour at Rodham where we picked up a buoy and tied the stern off onto the nearby jetty. The old pilot’s harbour is tucked in tightly between islands on the northern side of Rodham. Unusually there were a few other boats sharing the harbour with us. A couple of motor boats and a small sloop. Ashore there were some very good composting toilets and a replica of the original pilot’s house. The harbour itself was closed until June.

The island was sculpted out of pink granite and had few trees apart from the low lying, scrubby juniper. On the exposed south side the Baltic was mirror calm with raft after raft of eider all “coo-ing” to each other in the evening sun.

Granite coast on the south side of Rodham

Sunset from Rodham Guest Harbour

Rodham Guest Harbour

May 15th 2009 - Exploring the Alands by bicycle

2009-05-20T13:56:00.014+01:00

Log 0 miles by sea but quite a lot by bike. Sally, Simon and Carol.

After a few days at sea today was the day to break the bikes out of the bilges and go exploring. Carol hired a stunning pink affair for just 7 euros a day.

Carol on her rather stunning pink bicycle

After breakfast ashore the first stop was the excellent Chandlery about 3km out of town where we finally bought the charts of the Aland Islands and the route to the south as well as the usual bits and bobs that always seem to appear at the checkout.

We were moored in the Eastern Harbour so we cycled over to the West Harbour to see what we were missing. It was certainly quieter, better sheltered and more picturesque. We had lunch in a dockside cafe and then had a look around the Pommern. This 4 masted square rigger had been built on the Clyde in 1903 and had spent the next 35 years sailing around the world carrying cargo. She had no engine and a crew of just 26. Her last commercial journey was in 1937 from Mariehamn to Adelaide and back and then she was retired. Indeed she was one of the last commercial sailing vessels to make the trip. She is now tied up permanently in in the West Harbour and is an excellent museum.

The Pommern at Mariehamn

Nearly all of the work on board was done by the crew who heaved on ropes, ground winches and pushed capstans. A small steam engine – made in Cradley Heath – was used to winch cargo on and off.

The Donkey Boiler on the Pommern

In the late afternoon we cycled out to the Ramsholmen Peninsula just west of the airport. This delightful nature reserve was alive with flowers and deciduous trees. Some photos are included below.

Swan at Ramsholmen

Wood Anemones at Ramsholmen in the forest meadow

Ramsholmen

Cowslips

Wednesday and Thursday 13th and 14th May, Rano to Rodloga and Rodloga to Mariehamn

2009-05-20T13:15:00.008+01:00

Tall ships tacking north

Log 111 miles. Sally, Simon & Carol

Clear blue skies and light northerlies. We left early and sailed a little before being headed and forced to motor. We were shown up by a couple of classic boats who were determined to short tack all the way but we pressed on with the engine on as we were keen to get to the Aland Islands which were still over 100 miles upwind.

We did, however, find time for an idyllic lunch stop at Grisselholmen (page 194 of the Pilot). A very picturesque anchorage full of duck, swans, terns and gulls.

Grisselholmen

Our evening anchorage was at Rodloga and by now the wind was strengthening so we dug the anchor in very hard as one forecast predicted winds to 50 km/h through the night. Though it blew it never got anywhere near that but we did hesitate the next morning when a near gale warning was issued for the Aland Sea and sure enough it was to come from exactly the direction we wanted to go. Identifying a raft of Tufted Duck delayed us somewhat too. We did, eventually, decide to go for it and Sally and Carol duly downed their sea sickness tablets and remain comatose as I write this (about 12 hours later)! The wind turned out to be a “fresh northerly” which, at this latitude in the Baltic means it was cold. The sea too was cold as I found out when I took a Baltic wave down my neck. Very fortunately, after motoring for an hour or so up through the last of the Stockholm Archipelago, we were able to bear off to the north east and sail close hauled direct for the southern approach to Mariehamn. Reefed heavily we bounced along at 8 knots most of the way and made light work of the “near gale in the Aland Sea”. I did, however, regret leaving the tender on its davits as, with the chop and the angle of heel, there were a couple of occasions when we were dragging one of the floats sideways through the water at great speed.

We passed south of the wind farm at Nyhamn and headed up to the narrow entrance that leads to Mariehamn’s Eastern harbour. By now the wind had built and so we motored the last few miles directly into the wind. With the combination of strong winds, a strange harbour and no pilot book we decided to anchor off the guest harbour for the night and visit by tender. That was the plan but now I find that my crew are in an Avomine induced stupor and cannot be budged. I have had to resort to typing up the blog and trying to log onto WiFi. Anyway it’s great to be in Finland and at our most northerly latitude on this cruise (60 degrees 05 minutes north and 19 degrees 58minutes East). The forecast is for more northerlies so let’s hope that we have finished the upwind sailing!

Wind farm and old iron mines at Nynham

Tuesday May 12th 2009 Oxelosund to Rano with a brief stop at Stora Ramklov

2009-05-20T12:49:00.007+01:00

Steel works at Oxelosund

Log 47 miles. Sally, Simon and Carol (Darwin)

After 8 months ashore Shimshal was re-launched last week in Oxelosund. She had been very well cared for through the long winter by Jaochim, Catarina and Bengt at the Oxelosund Batvarv.

We flew out on Sunday afternoon and spent Monday sorting out a few snags that had arisen. The solenoid on the windlass had stuck but was quickly sorted out by stripping and lubricating. On the first night we had some excitement when two of the saloon lights went on fire. Fortunately we spotted it very quickly and no serious damage was done. But why did they spontaneously combust? The mystery was solved the next morning when we discovered that some 12 volt replacement bulbs had been fixed in the 24 volt circuit – they were certainly bright! On a similar note the next morning the forward heads started to flood the boat but this was quickly sorted by putting the old valve back in as the new replacement that had been fitted was by a different manufacturer!

These and other minor snags were quickly sorted and on Tuesday morning we left the harbour on a gloriously sunny day with a light north westerly wind. We motored past the steel works and the curious island that has been completely trashed by nesting cormorants. After that we turned more easterly and made steady progress under sail. About 5 miles from our short cut through the Landsort Peninsula we were struck by a powerful little squall that set us pounding along at 10 knots.

Stora Ramklov is a few miles east of Landsort offering good shelter from northerlies. As we were anchoring the wind went round to the south so, after a cup of tea, we pressed on for Rano where we knew we could get shelter from all wind directions. We had a lovely evening sail in a light, cold easterly and entered the anchorage just as the wind died altogether.

We have seen lots of bird life along the way including White Tailed Sea Eagle, Barnacle Geese, Grebes to name but a few.

Sally Currin, Yachtmaster.

2009-04-23T17:49:00.003+01:00

Sally is looking more than a little pleased with herself today as you can see on the picture above. She is seen brandishing her newly acquired certificate.

Sally awarded RYA Yachtmaster Offshore

2009-03-22T20:50:00.002Z

After 13,500 miles of sailing Sally decided it was time to taking a course and get herself a qualification. She has spent weeks plotting, calculating depths and making strange tooting noises.

First came the theory course which she did at Southern Sailing in Southampton. It turns out that all her preparation meant that this part of the assessment presented few difficulties. However, the nervous energy really started to flow as the date of the 5 day practical course approached with its 36 hour assessment at the end of it.

Last friday was "D" Day when the examiner stepped abourd. Somehow she had manage to fix it so that the tides were at neaps and the wind non existant. By Saturday evening she was on the train home having passed with flying colours - much to the relief of us all!

Quite cold in Oxelosund

2009-02-27T20:39:00.021Z

As you can see it's quite cold in Oxelosund at the moment.

Sally has been out there checking on the various works that have been done on the boat this winter.

New shelves are appearing in the aft and fore cabins.
A third version of the chart table seat is being designed and built with a new extension to the electricity fuse panel incorporated into it.
A local black smith has built us a lovely new stainless boarding ladder which replaces the original which was never fit for purpose.

The canvass sprayhood is being modified so that it folds down onto a bespoke glass and stainless windscreen. This will give us much better protection and forward visibility in rough weather. This particular project has been 18 months in gestation so it's a huge relief that it has finally been fitted today. We are axiously awaiting photos from the boat yard so that we can see what it looks like!

Launch day is April 29th and we sail for the Aland Islands and Finland in mid May. From there we will head down to Gdansk in Poland which will be Shimshal's home through June. Then from Gdansk we will head for the Danish Belts and another pause in northern Denmark through July. In August we will be bringing Shimshal back home to Traighuaine via the North Sea and the Caledonian Canal. I can't wait!

2009-01-03T17:49:00.001Z

Shimshal is currently ashore in the Swedish port of Oxelosund where the maximum temperature tomorrow is forecast to be -6°C.

Stockholm to Napoleanviken

2008-08-31T21:28:00.021+01:00

27^th August 2008

The front came over during the night with a moderate amount of rain. The wind did shift from light north easterly to warm south westerly but was seldom more than 10 knots.

We spent the morning in the Wasa Museum which houses the 300 year old wreck of the Wasa which sank in 30 metres of water on its maiden voyage. The top heavy ship, rigged with extra cannon by Royal Decree, proved unable to withstand a squall which struck just a few metres from her launch and she quickly sank. There she lay, undisturbed, until the 1960’s when she was painstakingly excavated and then salvaged before being towed back to a specially constructed dry dock. The black, anaerobic mud, had perfectly preserved her timbers and she now stands in a purpose built museum building within a few yards of the marina.

Initially we planned to sail back from Stockhholm through the canal system that first runs west from the city to Lake Malaren and then south through the Sodertjale. By early afternoon, however, the sun had come out and the breeze had filled in and the prospect of sailing eastwards seemed rather more temping than motoring through the canals. We left the Wasahamn at 1300 and drifted eastwards at a gentle 3 to 4 knots out of the city. After about an hour we turned south to enter the Baggensstaket which was mercifully almost completely deserted. We passed one yacht coming the other way. At the southerly end the sails came back out and we had a delightful, flat water, reach back to Napoleanviken. As we dropped the sails to motor into the anchorage a sea eagle circled to the south of us before disappearing off into the distance on a fast glide.

This time there were only 3 boats in the anchorage and we anchored in 5 metres in the north east arm of the loch. Arrived 1730.

Oxelosund to Napoleanviken

2008-08-31T21:28:00.020+01:00

August 25^th 2008 (Michael Schupp, Simon & Sally)

We had left Birmingham early the previous afternoon and, thanks to Charlie, our most hospitable of marina managers, who met us at the airport, we were onboard by early evening. The forecast was fine for Monday with a front arriving later the next day so we decided on a early start. By 7am we were underway and under sail.

A warm NNE gave us a fine close reach at 7 to 8 knots out to the Landsort Peninsula where we took the unmarked passage to shave some miles off the route. After that progress was slower and we began to tack into the north easterly. The motor went on for the next 4 hours until we were able to turn north and ghost along in the gentle evening breeze for the last couple of hours to our anchorage.

Passing rocks and shallows we gingerly entered an idyllic anchorage. We anchored just short of Seewolf II in about 5 metres. Michael took advantage of the sunny evening and quickly donned his speedos and jumped overboard. He removed a small amount of weed from the log’s paddlewheel transducer and then splashed around saying how warm it was. Of course it wasn’t warm as Sally quickly found out when she followed him. Never has a swim been so brief!

Dave and Helen from Seewolf joined us for supper along with their guests Archie and Farilie. We ate very well as did the mosquitos.

Log 70 miles.

Napoleanviken to Rano

2008-08-31T21:28:00.019+01:00

August 28^th2008

It rained most of the night so there was no hurry to get up but by the time we had had breakfast the sun was out and the clouds were skittering eastwards. We motored out into the channel at around 1100 and turned south to enjoy a fast reach under reefed main and genoa. When the lead later turned to the south west we changed down to the staysail and tacked our way into a brisk westerly with true wind gusting up to 35 knots. Michael cheerfully helmed all of the way despite being assaulted by the odd blast of wind driven Baltic.

We had been pushing into the steadily mounting gusts for a couple of hours with water up to the saloon window when we checked the weather forecast to find that there was, indeed, a gale forecast. Always happy to retreat in the face of adversity we dodged into the comfortable shelter of Rano which had in it only one other yacht. Rather different to our previous visit in early July when there was a small armada there.

Log distance 25 miles

Napoleanviken to Stockholm

2008-08-31T21:28:00.012+01:00

26^th August 2008

The morning was fantastically sunny and started with a short dinghy trip to the polished granite head wall of the loch. The summit of this gave a fine view down to the anchorage.

The anchor came up at 1000 and we motored out behind a small schooner before turning north and entering the Baggensstaket. As we turned the red buoy that marks the entrance the depth gauge read just 1.2 metres beneath the keel and there it stayed for some time. The passage narrowed into a delightful green channel lined by deluxe summer houses each with their own jetty, bathing house, speedboat or yacht. As we neared the northern exit and just where it became impossibly narrow a ferry suddenly shot around the corner causing us to breath in a little!

We finally exited into the wide fairway that forms the main east to west approach to Stockholm. Now we were surrounded by speed boats, ferries, tankers, police launches and jet skis all whizzing along leaving us wallowing in their wake. By now the sky had become grey and as we docked on the outer pontoon of the Wasserhamnen Marina the first spots of rain began to fall (1300). We were a bit exposed to the swells from passing launches and ferries but it proved a comfortable enough dock for the night. The marina sold us Camping Gaz which seems a rare commodity in these parts.

During the afternoon we took a walk into the old town visiting the Palace and the Alfred Nobel Museum. Seewolf arrived an hour or two after us and proved, as usual, excellent company.

Oxelosund boat yard

2008-08-31T21:26:00.008+01:00

August 30^th

After taking down the sails and a general clean up we motored around to the fishing harbour only to find it crammed with boats. Eventually space was made for us and we docked under the crane ready for a lift out in 4 days time.

Rano to Oxelosund

2008-08-31T21:26:00.007+01:00

29^th August 2008

During the night the wind veered to the north giving us the perfect wind direction for a fast passage back to Oxelosund. Initially aft of the beam we shot off at 8 to 9 knots down to the short cut through the Landsort Peninsula where we reefed down to control our speed through the narrow passage. As we came through one of the very narrow passages with a 90 degree bend in it we spotted a sea eagle landing on a nearby fir tree.

Finally we sighted the plume of Oxelosund’s steel works and only started the engine when we came into the shallows off the south end of the steel works where the depth dropped to 0.5 metres below the keel.

We docked alongside the jetty back at the Promarina at Oxelosund.

Distance run 35 miles.

2008-08-01T09:49:00.001+01:00

Shimshall II is currently in the North Baltic