We left Nanortaliq as we had found it under a thick veil of fog. Painstakingly we steered precise bearings using a bow watch and radar to steer clear of icebergs. We were resigned to maintaining that intense level of concentration all day but, when we turned a headland, the fog rolled away and a sailing breeze sprung up.
The weather improved again as we rounded the southern ramparts of Sermosoq. Jagged mountain ridges, sheer walls and grounded icebergs littering the coast. We sped past on a broad reach.
Our origins plan had been to anchor at Zacharias Havn but the lure of hot springs was too strong so we took a 24 mile dog leg diversion to the north and anchored off the western shore of Umanaq. A wonderfully secure anchor holding meant that we could go ashore and spend a couple of hours luxuriating in the wilderness hot springs.
The springs were heavenly. Bubbles and hot water percolated from the gravel bed of the pool creating a perfect 5m diameter infinity pool lapped with luxuriant buttercups, butterwort and orchids. Below us Shimshal lay at anchor with large, harmless icebergs safely grounded out in the bay. Beyond Shimshal lay a spectacular array of jagged, snowy peaks marching east to the far off ice cap. What an incredible place!
The night was spent undisturbed by ice for the first time in ages for, even in the harbour at Nanortaliq, we had been in regular jousting matches throughout the small hours.