Reluctantly we left the hot springs in our wake and steered south west to pass Zacharias Havn to port. The landscape was now changing. Jagged mountains were giving way to low, rolling headlands and a plethora of narrow passages. Occasionally we had rain and but the fog stayed away which meant that the helm could relax a little although the pilotage remained intricate.
Occasionally we lost the shelter of the islands and rolled in the swells of the Davis Strait. Out to sea and to our south a gale was blowing but we had seen it coming and pushed north to where we knew there would be much less wind. In fact there was none so we motored the 40 miles to Qaqortoq.
In a narrow passage we disturbed a sea eagle and in another a whale dived a few metres from the boat.
We were now in quite populated waters and fast ferries (Targa 33's and 27's) shot past us even in the narrowest of passes. Finally we entered the fjord that runs a few miles east to Qaqortoq and saw, anchored at the entrance to the harbour, the cruise liner Rotterdam. We had last seen her heading in the opposite direction when we were on passage from Isafjordur to Patreksfjordur.
Alchemy had arrived an hour or so ahead of us having spent the night at Zacharias Havn. We rafted up alongside them and everyone was pleased to be unexpectedly reunited.
During the afternoon the tenders to the Rotterdam swarmed around the harbour disgorging and collecting 150 guests at a time.
We wandered around town with the mainly American cruise passengers, re-provisioned and, somehow, Sally managed to get us an invitation
to Laila's birthday party. It was never clear who Laila was or why we were invited but from the evidence on the cake it was her 23rd birthday. We all went up to the excellent hostel to stuff ourselves with the copious cakes and coffee bequeathed by Laila's friends and family. Happy birthday Laila!