We had no particular expectations of La Scie other than the certainty that it provided for a secure overnight stop on the way to Notre Dame Bay. The number of reported icebergs on the passage south from St Anthony had dwindled from 41 to 14 but they still presented a risk. We chose La Scie as we could reach it within the hours of daylight being just 85 miles away.
The crossing to Cape St John was as benign as it gets. A brief escort of dolphins, the odd whale sighting, very few icebergs and flat seas. What wind there was was against us so the engine droned away until the evening sunshine lit up the rugged, twisted and contorted cliffs that guard the harbour. New breakwaters and a new wharf have been built since our charts were made but the hammerhead on the pontoon was missing so we went along side the new wharf instead and were immediately greeted by friendly fishermen in their Dodge Rams. The accents were decidedly Newfie but a whole lot more comprehensible than the Labradorian on Black Tickle and beyond.
It was a golden evening so supper was postponed in favour of a board walk through the stunted pine woods, alive with unfamiliar birdsong and scented wildflowers up on to the cliff tops. The cliffs were heavily gouged and wrinkled and their weird textures were made more prominent by the slanting sunlight.
Dinner got postponed a second time just as the satay was being served. A car sounded it's horn on the dock above us and the harbour master announced, 'I'm here to take your money.' All $1.19/ metre of it!
To pay involved a drive of a couple of miles to his office where he had a photo gallery of all the boats that have visited over the 12 years he has been harbour master. Maybe 25 sailboats and now SHIMSHAL's evening pose is pinned up alongside the others. Laundry, shower and toilets were all well kept and included in the $1.19/metre fee.
A warm and hospitable welcome to a wonderful harbour and a quiet night alongside before heading off first thing to Fortune Harbour in a Notre Dame Bay.