Medex Nepal 2018
As we said our farewells to Furba at Kathmandu Airport a few hours ago it was clear that he expected us back and that we all fully expect to be back in Nepal within the next few years. Furba announced that we must go to Dolpo and so Dolpo it is! I suspect he is already drafting the itinerary and earmarking the Sherpa Guides to keep us in order along the way. The only thing Furba couldn’t tell us was ‘when’ but I suppose that really is a decision we can’t delegate!
Medex 2018 was free from all the anxiety and stress of big budget research and mountaineering expeditions that have previously been our speciality. Instead it was a relaxing, if strenuous, stroll through some of Nepal’s gems with, and amongst old friends.
Our team of trekkers bonded effortlessly with our superb Nepalese staff who helped us along every inch of the way from the moment we emerged from ‘arrivals’ to the moment we were ushered to the ‘departures’ gate. They bonded so well as more than half of our team have been trekking and Medexing together since 1994 and have shared all the ups and downs of numerous trips with each other and with our Nepalese staff for a quarter of a century.
The choice of treks and the routing was exemplary as it afforded us a perfect acclimatisation schedule whilst exploring three very different valleys and cultures.
The purpose was to spend tourist dollars in the areas worst affected by the 2015 earthquake. We stayed in lodges that had freshly risen out of the ruins and spent our cash exactly where it was most needed.
The scenery in Nepal never disappoints and this trip had a little if everything. Cool forests in the cloud, villages, summer yak pastures, lakes, glittering peaks, gompas and high mountain passes. At times the trail was busy with fellow trekkers but for most of it we were more or less alone in a perfect window of weather between the end of the trekking season and the arrival of winter.
The most abiding memories will, as always, be of the the fellowship and friendships along the way. The beaming smiles of our porters. The chant of, ‘wake-up tea’ as our jolly guides attempt to stir our weary bones in a cold and spartan lodge at 4,600m. The quiet, unassuming confidence of Furba as he describes the plans for the next day’s walk. The casual encounters with villagers, school children and lodge owners that add colour and character to the whole experience.
Yes we will definitely be back in two or three years and yes we will be heading to Dolpo and, maybe, even further west and off piste. Chitwan was great but they say Bhadia is better so that too will be on the list.