Joining the Crowds
Yesterday we trekked out of the quieter backwaters and joined the Everest Basecamp bound hoards. We will share their trail for two days before forking left to wander once more more off piste - though we will still be in a much more heavily trekked area than is usual for us.
Being on the main trail has its compensations as the trekking lodges are now super-prosperous. Last night we stayed in a lodge that could easily be taken for a Swiss mountain hotel where the electrics and the plumbing work, where the mattresses are 4 inches thick and, of course, the scenery is superb.
Today we joined the circus to trek, in glorious weather, up to the Sherpa capital at Namche Bazaar. For a wee while I had a platoon of Austrians dressed in luminescent yellow Lycra behind me and a mechanised division of ski- stick clicking, black clad Germans in front. All of us puffing and sweating in the early afternoon sun. As we wound our way ever higher a herd of yaks plunged down through the cosmopolitan ascenders followed by another Lycra clad group, blue and green this time, of Italians enjoying their ability to breath and talk with each foot they descended.
Passing the trail side cafes and lodges, amplified World music boomed out. Tibetan Chants then a bit of Asian Dance followed by Rap. All under the Himalayan sun and amongst delectable scenery. Gushing rivers, shaded woods, waterfalls and gleaming Himalayan peaks towering above us.
I arrived in Namche following a few wide loads trudging up the last few feet of the trail. Sally, who never sweats, helped them along their way with some water out of her water bottle which was gratefully received. The first went to the San Miguel man with his 5 foot wide load of beer cans. Someone calculated it weighed 100kg! Behind came the Horlicks man whose load was equally cumbersome but, presumably, somewhat lighter. Last across the line was the Buffalo man whose sandals I have been following since Junbesi. His enormous leg of buffalo will be on the posh restaurant menus in Namche tonight.
Gosh how Namche has changed! The centre with it sunshine filled terraces and booming music is more Alpe d’Huez aprés-ski than the medieval cultural capital I remember from 30 years ago.
But I’m not complaining. It’s wonderful to be here so early to bask in the afternoon sun and to gaze out over the beautiful town that fits within the amphitheater that is this very special part of the Himalayas.
