Renjo La
It was always going to be a big day that would see us climb from the village of Gokyo to crest the 5,400m Renjo Pass and then begin the long descent following the ancient route to Tibet to overnight at Lumden. Although we had spent the previous day with a good acclimatising walk it is true to say that some of us weren’t in the best shape.
I had coughed through the whole night and had slept little. Others were coughing too and Sally had developed a sore throat and snuffles. More worryingly Andy had taken a trip to the Health Post the day before to have an abscess drained. He also had significant acute mountain sickness symptoms with breathlessness on minimal exertion and a feeling of exhaustion.
Anyway this motley crew of coughing, snorting and panting trekkers set off on a frozen, still Himalayan morning. At first the trail climbed steadily and we kept up with the porters to turn Andy’s bag around if Andy had to turn around. After pausing at a porters shelter we began the loose stony zigzags that climbed steeply. By now our team was well spread out.
It was a perfect Himalayan day as the views opened out. Everest loomed to the east of us, Cho Oyo to the north and slowly the distinctive shape of Makalu crept over the horizon. There was not a breath of wind and a cloudless, blue sky.
After zigzags we reached a virtually flat and stony glacial plateau which took the strain off the lungs. As we neared the jagged ridge the gradient steepened and the path twisted itself into knots as we played tag with the porters. It was such a perfect day even the porters were enjoying themselves and for some it was the first time that they had crossed the Renjo La.
Prayer flags marked the pass and just after 11am the front markers reached the mani stones where they paused and drank in the views whilst the back markers wound their way to the top. On either side of the pass the views were sensational. To the west Parcharmo was gleaming in the late morning sun. To the east, now nestling under their own tiny lenticular clouds, lay the grandest peaks of them all. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori and, further afield, Makalu. This must be one of the most spectacular views from any pass in the Himalayas.
It was warm and sunny and so there was no rush to begin the descent which gave time for the stragglers to be resuscitated with Mars Bars, hot lemon and cheese sandwiches. As we ate the choughs played in the weak thermals picking up the crumbs that came their way.
Then the descent began, steeply at first, down a well made track which had been cleared of snow. After reaching the lake the gradient eased and rolled down a long, long valley with a rising head wind.
The first lodge in Lumden was full so we plodded on with wearying legs until we found one that could accommodate us. The cold night was soon upon us and Mark took to his bed and didn’t re-emerge for 15 hours. It had been a long and arduous day.
