The Fellowship of Everest ‘94
Something very strange happened in 1994. Those that were part of the British Mount Everest Medical Expedition ‘94 (BMEME’94), all 75 of us, invested their time, talent, energy and money in achieving a preposterously ambitious series of objectives. Such was the intensity of their investment in that shared purpose, close bonds of friendship were forged which have endured for 25 years.
Our objectives weren’t simple. We set out to climb Everest and a number of lesser peaks in the area. Whilst doing so, we aimed to conduct an extensive scientific programme of research looking at all aspects of altitude related illness. We wanted to do all of this without leaving any mark on the mountain and so worked hard to find ways to manage human waste at Base Camp. As if that weren’t enough, we were determined to educate anyone who would listen about the dangers of altitude related illness.
It took four years to transform an idea, born in an hypoxia trekker’s mind, into the reality of a major Expedition closing on Everest Base Camp during the monsoon of 1994. The journey to get from a blank piece of paper to an army of physiologists, sewage engineers, environmental scientists, climbers, accountants and doctors all marching towards Everest was as convoluted as it was mind blowing. The result, though, was an eclectic group of adventurers bent on doing their bit for the common good.
Somehow, despite all of the hurdles, it all came together. We found vast amounts of money to pay for all the climbing and scientific kit we needed. We managed to get it all to the right place at the right time using armies of Yaks and Porters. Nearly everyone made it to Base Camp and most achieved their climbing objectives. Everest, Pumori, Island Peak, Parcharmo and Pokalde were all climbed despite the absence of a lull in the jet stream winds that is usually seen in October. The science survived an avalanche from the Lo La and every scrap of human waste was collected, freeze dried on tarpaulins, packed in barrels and then burned at lower altitude. All except one barrel of freeze dried poo that is - one made it all the way back to mid Wales!
BMEME’94 proved to be the start of a lifelong adventure for some.
For the scientists, they had papers to write and present around the World.
For the educators, our courses became the Diploma in Mountain Medicine and our booklet, Travel at High Altitude, remains the ‘go to’ text in the Himalayas to this day.
For the climbers, many went on to do great things. Although all returned safely from BMEME 94 sadly some succumbed to the mountains. Alison Hargreaves became a star professional climber but died 2 years later on K2. Her son, Tom, was at our Base Camp aged 4 on BMEME ‘94. He died on Nanga Parbat in 2019. Will Reynish fell to his death in the Pyrenees. George Smith, whose journey to Base Camp had been inspired by his own daughter’s death on Kusum Kungru, died canvassing for the Liberal Democrat’s.
For most of us, lifelong friendships were forged, careers were transformed and, for a few, wedding bells rang.
For me, it was one of the greatest privileges of my life to lead this whole endeavour; to be supported and joined in the field by three generations of my family, to climb through the icefall and into the Western Cwm where so much history has been made; to make such enduring friendships and, finally, to marry the Expedition Accountant!