Our first full day here on Isabela and we hired bikes, the plan was for an early start to make the best of the morning cool whilst cycling the outward leg of the route and then a leisurely, downhill return taking in the sites and beaches on the way.
We were off the boat by 7am , the early cool didn't quite work as it was 28 degrees already. Anyway, bikes picked up, off we went, the hire bikes were OK a few clunk's and grinding gears but as Heather said, you're not buying it... Progress was not too rapid, too hot, up hill and soft sandy roads but we didn't walk and managed to overtake a tortoise without too much bother.
We got to our turnaround point and learned a few things about Galapagos which don't fit with its current image, during the second World War the islands were garrisoned by American forces as a strategic stoping point in the Pacific, they built airports and radar stations amongst other things, the airports are in use today but most of the rest has been taken back by the jungle. The second point was that for 13 years after the war Isabella island was an Ecuadorian penal colony. Mostly political prisoners were basically worked to death building an enormous wall out of blocks of volcanic rock. There was no need or use for the wall other than for something to build. Add the conditions to corrupt guards, inadequate rations and overwork and not many survived.
The wall of tears is a section of the wall preserved as a memorial to those who died building it, not something I expected to find here. Today it is home to hundreds of small birds, geckos and surrounded by cactus forest, tortoise graze in its shadow but it is a reminder to a not so beautiful past.
The rest of the day was more cheerful, we meandered back down the hill, drinking in the views, discovered a group of giant tortoise wallowing in a mud hole and then stopped at a beach famous for its residents, a colony of blue footed boobies. To reach the beach we waded through a mangrove forest following a creek, delightful cold water flowing from underground, a joy in its self. Then we waded out amongst flocks of boobies, pelicans diving beside us, marine iguanas and sea lions swimming past us. It seems everywhere you look here there is another strange, unique creature. We spent a while on the way back just enjoying the cool water.
Other sites included iguana nest sites, lava tunnels, penguin swimming past and an hour spent playing in the surf on yet another beautiful beach.
We rounded the day off with fresh coconut water drunk from whole chilled coconuts, these were served by Maria, a machete wielding granny, no messing in her bar!
Tim