To the Galapagos
After 18 days of intense preparation and provisioning Shimshal seemed in a hurry to quit Central America. With a steady 22 knots of wind (gusting 30) on the starboard quarter, she roared and rolled her way out of the Gulf of Panama touching 11 knots at times. Exhilarating sailing for a boat laden with fuel, food and all the clobber cruising boats seem destined to carry.
But the fast and furious is not going to last. All forecast models agree there are equatorial calms ahead and many days of motoring before we glimpse the sea-lions and the marine iguanas.
On arrival in Galapagos, we will run the gauntlet of officialdom, but we have been meticulous in our preparations and have emailed ahead the certificates to prove fumigation, recent antifouling, hull inspection, medical stores, radio licences and numerous other tick box requirements. A large slug of dollars has been sent ahead to pay the entry fees, the permits and the dues that are the reality of cruising to exotic destinations. There are few more exotic cruising destinations than the Galapagos Islands!
An army of up to 14 inspectors and officials will pile onboard as soon as we anchor, sinking our waterline even further. Meanwhile, a diver will check our hull for any hint of barnacles. If all is not perfect, we will be sent 40 miles offshore for an ignominious hull scrub before being allowed to marvel at the blue footed boobies, the 300-year-old giant tortoises and the Finches that inspired the theory of natural selection.
For the next few days, we will adapt to life at sea. Constant motion, two hourly watches, the whine of the motor when the wind gives way to the doldrums and the occasional glimpse of dolphins rejoicing in our bow wave.
Our first Pacific night is inky black with the white crested waves lit only by the stars and the phosphorescence in our wake. Miraculously, none of the crew are sea sick and the Southern Cross is drawing us all towards our first Equatorial crossing on a small boat. All is good.
Our Pacific journey has begun.
First 12 hour run - just look at that speed!
