We are currently anchored in the harbour off Santa Cruz, the same place we arrived 5 weeks ago. Well, not exactly the same place as we wanted to avoid getting our anchor stuck again. We think we are good but will know when we try and pull up the anchor.
We have been so lucky to have had all this time here, most people who get here at all only get to visit for a week and try to cram in as much as possible in their short stay. We have had all the time we wanted, time to sit and drink in just where we are and how amazing it is, time to watch the world drift by, time to stop at every beach and snorkle and time to book onto every tour we could find.
Every island seems to have its animal, here on Santa Cruz it was the tortoise 🐢, Isabela was the turtles, Floreana, unfortunately the critter which spring to mind were cockroaches, after the heavy rain they just appeared and flew about. We found some on the boat and ever since have been on a mission to get rid of them. At first we thought they were only outside until one was found below, so, all the floor boards have been lifted and the whole boat fumigated. The rapid response seemed to work and only one more has been found skulking on deck under a cover. We are all still on high alert and have the supplies to repeat the process if needed
The animal on San Cristobal has to be the sea lion. They are everywhere, whenever you get in the water they zoom past so efficiently and effortlessly. They are like dogs, playing together, carrying toys, and so inquisitive. Every beach is covered, every bench has its residents and every boat is fitted with anti sea lion protection as, given 1/2 a chance, they chamber aboard and make them selves at home.
In addition there have been some memorable animal interactions on several of the islands, or more correctly in the water whilst diving or on boats. The orca pod sighted off Isabela, hunting manta rays, the golden rays we have seen in a couple of places, on our Kicker Rock and Gordon Rocks dives we will always remember diving with hammerhead sharks, such power and control. Last but not least we will never forget being part of a fish bait ball for a while. We could only have been closer to fish in a sardine tin.
On land we mustn't forget the unique bird life, penguins at the equator! the boobies with their unique foot colours, the frigate birds and pelicans and the finches which started it all when one Charles Darwin noted that their beaks were different on different islands. Too much to recall here, we have been saturated in wonderful creatures and experiences.
Strangely, each islands also feels different, here on Santa Cruz it is buzzing with tourists, this is the first place most people arrive and there are always people wandering around as amazed as we were when we first arrived. Most of the tours run from here and it is always busy with happy, tired and sun burnt people just back from some exciting place.
Isabela is far more laid back, the town is much smaller, the roads are all sandy, not tarmac and quieter, there is quite a lot you can do independently so the pace drifts along rather than rushes past. We were lucky to spend 2 weeks here and were able to walk the beaches, sit and wonder at the iguanas walking across the road and down the beach for a swim. Heather most enjoyed being able to leave her drink in a bar, spend 5 minutes in the surf and then sit down again, no on batted an eyelid.
Floreana was the smallest population of only 130. It had a close community feel with everyone doing 2 or 3 jobs to keep the place running. We felt so welcomed there, I felt that we could easily have been absorbed if we stayed too long.
Saint Cristobal is the official capital of the islands, it feels slightly more business like than here, still friendly but more formal. The place to get "work" done. It has the islands Naval base and gourvenment and perhaps makes it a bit more grown up. We enjoyed each of the islands we visited but if pressed I would have to say Isabela was my favourite.
We were privileged to visit so much of Galapagos, we stayed at all of the islands with permanent populations. There are a couple of extra islands it is possible to stay on but only if you have a guide stay with you or in accommodation run by the national park. What is so good about Galapagos is that only 3% of the land space is set aside for permanent residence, there is limited access under the control of the national park guides to another 35% and the rest is off limits to everyone but the parks staff or for research.
Galapagos is an incredible place, it is however like everywhere under pressure. Its very uniqueness makes more people want to visit which in turn puts more pressure on the infrastructure, the power supply, water and sewage systems are not designed to cope with the ever increasing visitor numbers but the money they bring with them and spend whilst here is needed to maintain and improve the inferstructure and help protect the environment. It must be a very narrow line to walk on, the Ecuadorian Gourvenment who ultimately control what goes on here have a very difficult future, to help keep what is left here pristine but to derive enough income to do so.
We have just been privileged to have visited here and seen so much.
So what is next for us, Shimshal is ready to go we have full tanks and food lockers, the vegetable nets bulge with peppers, onions, tomatoes and any other fresh stuff we could find on our market trip this morning. We will hand in our passports tomorrow and have an inspection team visiting the boat on Thursday morning. After that we will be officially stamped out of the country. All that remains after that is to pull up the anchor, point the sharp end of the boat a little bit south of west, and go. Basically head for the setting sun. Next stop the Marquesas, only 3000 miles to go. Its getting real again.
No photos this time i can only post 3 on a blog which just won't do this wonderful place justice so you will have to look back or watch Heather's utube videos.
See you in the Marquesas