Our final dive day in Galapagos was a day trip to Gordon Rocks, these are the highest parts of a submerged volcanic crater, the 3 rocks being the only parts to break the surface, the rest forming a semi circular reef below the surface which makes up the dive site. The lower slopes of the volcano form steep cliff faces, far below any depth we can reach, but which make the site a home for the animals we come to see. Between the 3 rocks are relatively shallow and narrow gully, through which the tides and Pacific swells surge, making for exciting diving. The technique to get through these gullys being to hang on tight to a protruding rock ( after checking it for sea urchins), whilst the surge tries to pull you back and then to let go and launch your self forward as soon as it turns and is heading your way. All the time you must avoid being pushed flat onto a bolder whilst looking for your next anchorage for when the water stops going your way. Its great fun really, the surge wizzing you along at speeds far higher than you could ever reach normally, all the while surrounded by countless fish all coping far better than us but still surging back and forth in the current. The only benefits we have are hands, they struggle to hold rocks with their fins.
Around the rocks cruise sharks, we saw all the 4 main species, white and black tipped, Galapagos and of course Hammerhead, the smaller sharks generally alone or pairs, the hammerheads alone or sometimes in bigger groups , 8 or 10 at a time
The shark sightings only make up a relatively short part of the dive but all the while you know they are out there, just out of site in the green water or deep below in the gloom where the sunshine doesn't reach. Its comforting to understand that none of these sharks hunt anything as big as humans, I am not sure i would deliberately want to get into the water in areas where such sharks frequent.
As well as the big ticket shark visits we were treated to huge numbers of other animals. Turtles grazing the rocks as they are buffeted by the current. Rays lazily wafting along. Sea lions wizzing past, dropping in from the surface to see what is going on. They are so sleek and streamlined under water, so different from their slightly comical movements on land, bubbles streaming from their noses as they seemingly laugh at our clumsy attempts at diving, I suppose in the same way as we do at them on land. I wonder if they are impressed as we walk around them on the beach?
Most beautiful and probably most under rated as we all strain our eyes for the bigger animals are the huge numbers of fish, big sholes, single parrot fish, scorpion fish, some 3 feet long, others tiny hiding between the rocks. Every colour and paint scheme you can imagine, stripes, spots, zigzags, camouflaged. Hidden amongst the rocks, squeezed in to impossibility small gaps are moree eals, a deep green, long sinuous body, you normally spot the tail first as it sticks out of whichever hidy hole they have chosen. Then you have to search out the head end, sometimes several feet away, a sleek, pointed nose, huge teath and searching eyes, not something to get too close to.
A day out on a dive boat is generally fun, not only the diving but you get a boat ride along the coast, meet new people, all who probably have similar interests to you, and here in Galapagos most dive boats provide lunch, this time it was sabechi, local fish marinated in lime juice with rice and salad.
Yesterday was the last tour we have organised here, we plan to leave in a couple of days for the Marquesas and have final preparations to make. Simon and Sally spent much of yesterday, whilst we were diving, getting the boat tanks filled. We are now full of diesel and water again. We are probably ready to go apart from one last shopping trip to locate as much fresh fruit and veg as we can eat before it goes off. We will spend the remaining time wandering around ashore just enjoying the wonders Galapagos has to offer.
Tim