As the day light faded on our last night at sea we changed to the small genoa and heavily reefed the main sail. Not that it was so windy but we didn't want to arrive at our first atoll in the dark so we needed to slow things down quite a bit. Not that we didn't appreciate the reduced rocking whilst we ate dinner and slept.
Approaching an atoll is a bit different than one of the Marquesas islands. They are big, green and stick up a long way, they are also normally shrouded in big white clouds, the atolls however are mostly reef with the odd sandy island. The high point may be 5 m above sea level, not 500+ like the Marquesas. The tallest thing around is the coconut palms. So, instead of seeing them from 50 miles out you need to be quite close.
As we drew close to the entrance pass the VHF came to life, another boat only a couple of miles away had managed to sail onto the reef and needed help. We dropped all sails and headed up wind back towards their position, thankfully they managed to get themselves off but were happy to have us standing by whilst they assessed damage and then came through the pass.
We approached the pass again, the best estimate of the water flow out indicated we should be able to enter, however, after 15 minutes of getting nowhere against the current we gave up and turned round. It seems that the black art of tidal predictions for atoll passes still relies on a bit of guess work. 2 hours later we tried again , still a current outwards but well within our capability this time. The damaged yacht made it as well, now confident he wasn't sinking and was able to steer he headed off to a safe anchorage to lick his wounds.
Now inside the lagoon we too headed towards our chosen anchorage, the lagoon is a large, sheltered area surrounded by reef, this one is in places 15km wide so not small area. The water is generally deep enough but liberally sprinkled with small coral outcrops called bommies. These rise straight up from the sea bottom, some just break the surface some not. Most are not charted but a few may be. So, navigation across the lagoon must be done with great care, a combination of modern electronic charts plotters, satellite images, even overlaying Google earth shots onto the chart plotters. We also went old school with sharp eyed crew on the foredeck at all times pointing out any discolouration in the water ahead. With the sun high in the sky and standing as far above the water as you can it is reasonably easy to see the bommies but slow and steady seems to be the best way to go.
Our anchorages, when we arrived was tucked behind a low island 🏝, white coral sand and green palm trees, the sort of tropical island you drew as a child, beyond that the reef, stretching away on either side, keeping out the waves of the Pacific ocean which crash relentlessly on its outer rim. Through the reef flows the clearest sea water you have ever seen. In fact it is hard to even see it, when snorkeling you lie, suspended above the sea bed, surrounded by tropical fish 🐠 🐟 which just seem to hang on invisible threads, the odd juvenile shark 🦈 swimming around, the sea bed mostly white coral rubble, occasional coral bolders form miniature reefs, tiny underwater worlds enhabited by small school of colourful fish, the bigger the bolder the more and bigger its enhabitants. Now the bommies are a joy, each one a independent reef, corals, fish, clams, even an octopus if you are lucky. The longer you hover in the water and watch the more life appears, coming out of its hiding place in the coral to add another splash of colour to the reef.
This will be our world for the next few days, exploring the islands, snorkeling the cuts between them and the local bommies. We share the anchorage with others, some we already know, others we will meet. One of the boats is our friend from the reef, sad at the damage to his boat but relieved to have been able to get off the coral. His damage relatively minor, scratches and scrapes to the hull and keel, his rudder missing a piece from the bottom but still functioning. Thanks to the wonders of star link a haul out and repairs already booked in Tahiti. The boat sound enough to safely sail the remaining miles. A lucky escape indeed.
Tim