Blog Archive

Saturday 11 May 2024

The bright lights of Taiohae.


As we knew it would the winds dropped and we were able to move on from Anaho Bay.  Our next destination was Taiohae, the capital of the Marquesas and the best place to replenish the stores on Shimshal before setting off once more further across the Pacific towards the Tuamotus. 

Taiohae bay is huge, as you enter round a large rocky headlands it open up before you as a deep sheltered anchorage,  each flank guarded by wooded slopes, the head of the bay a long strip of dark volcanic sand with the town, yes Town, behind. 

As this is the biggest settlement in the Marquesas there are supermarkets, a yacht supply's business,  a chandlery,  bank and a restaurant.  We made use of all these wonders.

The 4 days we stayed were a mixture of business and fun. We took advantage of the shops to restock Shimshal for the next 5 or 6 weeks, this is probably the last chance to get bulk staple foods for a long time. So flour, rice, pasta, butter,(in tins which don't need refrigerating), cans of tonic, and anything else we saw and fancied were carried back to the boat. Fresh goods are still not easy to find, we have fruit in abundance but vegetables are scarce. We found onions, potatoes and carrot but little else. At the last moment a cabbage appeared so we will have coleslaw for a few days. We also topped up on diesel. 

We also explored the area, there are walks out along the headlands on either side of the bay giving stunning views and an huge display of tiki, both old and new. We also visited the restaurant and enjoy meals out with new cruising friends.  Pizza from a wood fired oven just can't be made on a boat.

After 4 days we were ready, the gas bottle was filled and the laundry collected,  the final treat of 4 French sticks came aboad and off we went, back to living off Shimshals ample stores  now supplemented with fresh vegetables. 

We only moved a little way, two bays down the coast in fact, to a place called Daniel's bay, so called as it was the home to a man called Daniel for 60 years. This bay is again beautiful.  Steep high cliff guarding the entrance,  the bay curling round on its self providing excellent shelter. We arrived, anchored and swam to cool off. The sun dipping early below the high cliffs. 
Tomorrow promises a long walk up the valley behind the bay to a waterfall. Also the hope of a meal ashore cooked for us by one of the local residents as we explore. More wonders await. 

Tim