We sailed into Notre Dame Bay almost a year ago and since then almost everyone we have met has said, “you’ve gotta go to Exploits!”
Today we took their advice and tied up at the LYC wharf at Lucy Point. The Exploits Islands were re-settled in the 1960’s when the cod fishing collapsed and destroyed these remote fishing communities. Now the locals describe it as, “a little bit of heaven”. Cabins held by families for generations have become the perfect summer hideaways. One hardy soul lives here all year round when ice fills the harbour and visitors, if they come at all, arrive by snowmobile.
Our first sortie ashore was a fabulous stroll through the lush pine forest to the lighthouse at Surgeon’s Cove. Boggy but beautiful with lichen laden trees and picturesque ponds. On the cliff, we found the lighthouse looking westwards to the channels and forested islands of Notre Dame Bay. To the north the fog swirled concealing the occasional iceberg.
The lighthouse keeper’s house looked restored whereas the light itself was in disrepair having been switched off in 2002. The thought struck me that it would make a lovely tea room were it not for it’s super-remote position, a 4km walk from a harbour on an island 30km north of the nearest mainland port.
Strange then that, having seen nobody all day, we poked our heads between house and cliff and came upon 5 folk there to restore, photograph and promote the keeper’s house.
Paul and Joanne run a local kayak outfit and are diversifying by developing the Keeper’s house into an adventure tourism base and we were lucky enough to turn up in time for tea! Soon the table on the deck was filled with scones, partridge berry jam, tea and home made cookies. A little bit of heaven indeed in a wonderful cliff top setting.
They will be marketing the Keeper’s House as ‘The Escape’ and a fine place to end a kayak tour of Notre Dames Bay. Google Adventures Newfoundland for details.
Thank you Paul, Joanne, Jason, Kim and Warren for sharing your afternoon with us and good luck with your new venture.
